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Nearly 25 years ago, Roberto Torres moved from the Mexican state of Guerrero to Orange County, landing a job as a dishwasher at a Vietnamese restaurant.

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Torres was part of a tide of immigration from Mexico and Vietnam that has transformed the central section of the county, where Asians and Latinos are now the dominant groups. Torres found Vietnamese specialties served at Song Long — fish stew, herb-marinated chicken — a little bland.

But he rose over the years to become head waiter. Chao chi. Anh chi thich an mon gi hom nay? Hello, miss. What would you like to eat today? Although Latinos have long worked in kitchens and on cleanup detail at Vietnamese restaurants, Torres is one of the few to have stepped from behind the scenes. In Westminster, Garden Grove and Santa Ana — three cities that comprise Little Saigon — there are nearlyVietnamese and more thanLatinos, according to the American Community Survey, an ongoing statistical study by the U. Census Bureau.

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Despite their political differences — the Vietnamese tend to be Republican, and the Latinos Democratic — experts say they come together to solve a labor shortage facing the area. The Vietnamese retail district is thriving, but owners have a limited pool of Vietnamese help because new immigration from the homeland has slowed so much.

Immigrants from Mexico and Latin America have found Little Saigon an entry point into the retail economy — albeit at the lowest rungs. Roberto Torres, an employee of 25 years, serves desserts at hotspot Song Long Restaurant, which serves French and Vietnamese fusion cuisine in Westminster. Lan Vo, owner of hotspot Song Long Restaurant, trains her Latino employees in customer service and the intricacies of French-Vietnamese cuisine.

For Roberto Torres, becoming the headwaiter meant a crash course in Vietnamese language and culture. Every so often, a customer will test how much he actually understands. Torres was able to move up at his restaurant, but many other Latinos never get beyond the kitchen or cleaning crew. Vietnamese at first settled largely in Westminster and Latinos in Santa Ana.

But over time, those boundaries blurred and greatly expanded.

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Vo said some Vietnamese started in the U. Some already knew English when they arrived and had received extensive education back home. Mexican immigrants working in every kind of restaurant are a normal part of the culinary life in Southern California and beyond.

In little saigon, some latinos are learning vietnamese to get ahead

For an employee like Torres, becoming the head waiter meant a crash-course in Vietnamese language and culture. I tested him on the dishes. He always gets my order right. At mom-and-pop stores and supermarkets across Little Saigon, Latinos pack and unpack shipments and are frequently ased to jobs like cleaning. But at some restaurants, including Van Restaurant, these workers occupy a more prominent role in the day-to-day operations. He works seven days a week, leaving between his morning and evening shifts for his apartment five minutes away.

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He has four children, the youngest about to turn Torres said that from the beginning, a generation ago, he closely watched how Vietnamese refugees interacted with each other — how they bowed to each other and served each other tea. He observed what broth-filled bowls or rice platters were most often chosen and memorized their names and even their smell. He worked equally hard to stay healthy, minimizing his sick days so he could staff every shift ased to him.

Lan Vo, the owner of Song Long, guides the Spanish-speaking employees in customer service and Vietnamese-French cooking. She uses photos and step-by-step instructions.

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Vo instructs them on the use of courtesy titles that Vietnamese speakers use to address each other. At Brodard, arguably the best-known Vietnamese restaurant in the U. Inside the noisy Garden Grove eatery, Amelia Najera, a seven-year employee, does not pause on the assembly line as she explains how she makes more than rolls per hour. Torres said that what surprised him at the beginning was how many short, seemingly clipped words there were in the Vietnamese language.

Now, other employees look at him as a role model. I never knew anything about Vietnam until I came here.

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An Orange County man wrongly jailed for 27 months in Vietnam for alleged actions to overthrow the government is home and, in his first public remarks Wednesday, thanked the community of residents and legislators who fought for his safe return.